My First Weebee Doll Bunny Crochet Along (CAL) free pattern by Laura Teg

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Founded: 16.01.2021
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My First Weebee Doll -
Bunny Crochet Along (CAL)
© Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for
commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
This special edition beginners version o f my st andard size Weebee doll pattern
was especially put t ogether for a Crochet Along (CAL) I guest hos ted in a beginners c roche t
group on Facebook in March 2017
Now that the CAL is over , please feel free to join the
Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook group
and post any questions or queries you have there, it’s a very friendly group dedicated to
my Weebee doll and clothing patterns and everyone helps each other there!
You can either make yourself a boy or a girl standard size Weebee Doll in a Bunny Costume as
written in this pattern , a version specially designed for this beginners CAL
or make yourself a naked doll to dress up , just ignore the colour changes and click here to find
clothing patterns for my Weebee dolls, many of them available to download for free!
More experienced crocheters may want to down load the original standard size Weebee doll
pattern, which you can find here – the same basic doll body essentia lly but naked and written in
an abbreviated way more familiar to those who have made amigurumi pieces before.
Please see page s 3 & 4 for yarn and hook information …
Terminology: US Abbreviations
Back loop only (blo)
Chain (ch)
Half double crochet (hdc)
Loop (lp)
Magic ring /circle (MR)
Next (nxt)
Round (rnd)
Abbreviations Cont/d…
Single Crochet (sc)
Space (sp)
Skip (skp)
Stitch (st)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Yarn Over (yo)
Other items needed:
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Pair of 10 or 12mm safety eyes
(see page 6 for crocheted
alternative)
Toy Stuffing

~ 2 ~
Index
Before Y ou Begin
Links to tutorials, special techniques & useful info for completing your doll ............. Page 3 & 4

Day One
Feet, Legs & Body ................................ ................................ ................................ ..Page s 5 & 6

Day Two
Head ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ Page 7 & 8

Day Three
Hands and Arms ................................ ................................ ................................ ............. Page 9

Day Four
Hair Cap – options for a boy doll a nd a girl doll available & finishing t ouches
................................ ................................ ................................ ........................... Pages 10 & 11

Day Five
Bunny Hat & Tail ................................ ................................ ........................... Pages 12 , 13 & 14

Planning Your Next Weebee Doll
Links to further patterns and ad vice on clothing options ................................ ............... Page 15

Frequently Asked Questions
Commonly asked quest ions about Weebee dolls ................................ ............... Page s 16 & 17

~ 3 ~
Before You Begin
If you are completely new to crochet and/or amigurumi I highly recommend that you watch the
following videos on YouTube as they explain the basics really, really well…
• How to Crochet for Beginners
Video includes information about hooks, yarn, holding the yarn, holding the hook and includes
many other tips along the way. It also covers chaining, single crochet, half double crochet, double
crochet and treble crochet within the same video https://ww w.youtube.com/watch?v=11iw -yBGm -k
• Person al Gauge/Tension
A useful page explaining about personal gauge/tension
https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=599&type_id=S
• How to Crochet Magic Circles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEsPB3Rdkicn
• Weaving in Loose Ends
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyvdsTz9Jso
• Learn How to Crochet Amgurumi - Part One by MyntKat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nekScyhJRaY
• Learn How to Crochet Amgurumi - Part Two by MyntKat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8P -LJs9uXUg
• How to tell the right side from the wrong side for right handed crocheters
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3Pu83sXk6Q
• How to tell the right side fro m the wrong side for left handed crocheters
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZjbZdngPM0
• Invisible single crochet decrease
It is very important that you follow this way of decreasing! Insert hook in front loop only of first
st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and
complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful from 1min 48 in)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah -Y0
Useful information for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left handed
https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
Frequently Asked Questions
I have added the frequently asked questions and answers from the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook group to the back of this document which I highly recommend that you read through before
starting as hopefully any queries you might have will be answered there.
Yarn Choice
All of my Weebee dolls have been designed so that y ou can use any weight of yarn. I don’t like to
dictate what people use and hope that people can find something suitable in their yarn stashes without
having to go and buy more yarn. Also here i n the UK it is hard to get hold of anyt hing other than DK
weight yarn and in the US I know that worsted weight is the most readily available, so , for example,
you can use either of these to make your doll. My dolls mad e in DK weight yarn and with a 3.5mm
hook measure 9.5 inches tall , with a head with a circumference of 16 inches. I have seen l ots of dolls
made with worsted weight yarn varied from 12 to 14 inches tall with h eads with a circumference of 17
to 19 inches dependant upon brand and hook size . Personal gauge and how well you stuff your dolls
plays a part too of course.

~ 4 ~
However, i f you wish to replicate one of my doll’s exactly, for the one’s pictured in this particular
pattern, you will need:
• Body, Part of Hat & Bunny Ears: 100g skein - 322 yards (294 meters) of Styl ecraft Special DK
yarn in White
• Head and Hands: Less than 50g - 161 yards (147 meters) of Stylecraft Special DK yarn in
Stone.
• Hair: Less than 50g - 161 yards (147 meters) of Stylecraft Special DK in either Mocha (boy) or
Gold (girl)
• Contrasting Colour on Tail & Hat: Less than 25g – 81 yards (74 meters) of Style craft Special
DK in Cypress (boy) or Clematis (girl)
• Plus a small amount of Stylecraft Special DK in Black for the eyes and nose on the hat.
Other options
I asked in the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook group for information about which yarns, others
use d most often and how much they use d on average to make a standard size d doll and received the
following replies which I hope will be helpful when choosing your yarn …
Yarn Type ** Hook Size Used* Amount Used
Red Heart Super Saver 3mm or 4mm A skein of body/hat/ear color
and small bits for the face,
hands and tail .
I can get 2 almost 3 naked dolls
out of a skein
Mirage 4 Ply (South Africa) 3mm Not supplied, sorry.
Marvel 8ply DK or Carnival
Acrylic (Australia)
3.5mm or 4mm It takes about 50g to make a
standard size Weebee doll,
probably about 2 5-30g for a hat
or hair piece.
Boyes own aran wool 4mm A doll takes around two thirds
of a ball. A hat around a third of
a ball (100g)
Knit picks Brava worsted 3.5mm 1 skein would be enough for
body/ hat
Craft ers secret worsted yarn
(found at hobby lobby)
3.50mm or 4mm hook Same as red heart super saver
yarn.
Impeccable yarn 5mm or 6mm It does not take a full skein to
make one doll. I usually have
enough left over to do half of a
second doll.
Lily sugar and cream cotton 5mm Not supplied, sorry.
Caron's pounder 4mm Not sure of how much I use but
I get 4 1/2 dolls out of it.
* Please see note below about personal gauge/tension with regards to hook size and for a conversion
chart for hooks, please see here .
** There can be a big difference between brands, even if the weight of the yarn is the same, and even
colours within the same brand. Here's an inter esting article about this issue:
http://www.planetjune.com/b…/worsted -weight -yarn -compar ison/
Hook Size
You will need to use a hook suitable for the weight of yarn you are using that give you nice tight
stitches that won’t show the stuffing – I used a 3.5mm hook with the above mentioned yarn, your own
personal gauge/tension will affect which hook size you choose to use – please see link on previous
page for a guide on personal gauge/tension.

~ 5 ~
Day One – Feet, Legs & Body


Legs – make 2
Each leg is crocheted in continuous spirals without joini ng the rounds from the foot up.
You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the
marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: With white yarn MR (see page 3 for how to do a magic circle) , work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next st , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18s ts)
Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts , 2sc in next st , repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc into the back lo op only of each st around (24sts)
Rnds 6 -8: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8 sts , sc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (20sts)
(Please see page 3 as all sc2tog’s within this pattern should be worked as Invisible D ecreases ).
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the next 8 sts , sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (18sts)
Rnd 11 -16 : Sc in each st around (18sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you sho uld be at the back of this leg, continue as
follows…
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs a little lighter for now.. .
If you need help with this next part (and are not following the CAL video above, just this written
pattern) please see this video on How to Join the Legs on the Weeb ee and Friends YouTube
channel here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHyfhAHhDS8
Rnd 17: Work 4 sc then take other leg and place it next to the first so that both feet are facing the
same way, then sc into the corresponding st on the opposite leg, continue to work 17 further sts
around this leg and then the remaining 14 sts around the other leg (36sts)
There will be a small hole between the legs when joined. When you have finished the doll,
simply take a small piece of yarn and with your darning needle sew the hole closed.
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around (36sts)
Find the Video Tutorial s for Part One here (feet & legs) and here (body)

~ 6 ~
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining
the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of where
the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 19: * Sc in each of the next 5 sts , 2sc in next st ,
repeat from * around (42sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in each of the next 20 sts , 2sc in next st ,
repeat from * once more (44 sts)
Rnd 21: *Sc in each of the next 10 sts , 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (48 sts)
Rnd 22: *Sc in each of the next 11 sts , 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (52 sts)
Stuff the body firmly as you go.
Rnd 23: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, repeat from * around (48 sts)
Rnd 24: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 10 sts, repeat from * around (44 sts)
Rnd 25: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (40 sts)
Rnd 26: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (36 sts)
Rnd 27: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (32 sts)
Rnd 28: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts , repeat from * a round (28 sts)
Rnd 29: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (24 sts)
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Rnd 31: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (20 sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around (20sts)

~ 7 ~
Day Two – Head
(Also known affectionately as Weebee’s alien phase, lol!)

Head
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds,
using a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each
round starts.
Change colour for head – fasten off white and using skin toned yarn
work a round of LOOSE slip stitches into the back loops only of round
32 and then work rou nd 33 into the back loops of those slip stitches. I
show how to do th is exact colour change in the CAL video above and
also how to do a colour change this way in this video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZODAPmmdls
Rnd 33: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from *
around (24 sts )
Rnd 34: *Sc in each of the next 3 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from *
around (30 sts )
Rnd 35: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from *
around (36 sts )
Rnd 36: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (42 sts )
Rnd 37: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (48 sts )
Rnd 38: *Sc in each of the next 7 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (54 sts )
Rnd 39: *Sc in each of the next 8 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (60 sts )
Rnd 40: *Sc in each of the next 9 sts , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (66 sts )
Rnd 41: Sc i n each st around (66 sts )
Rnds 42 -43: Sc in each st around - place markers between these two rounds, seven stitches
apart, for safety eyes or for embroidered (or crocheted see ^^ on page 8 ) eyes later (66 sts )
Rnds 44 -51: Sc in each st around – if using safety eyes, attach them after working round 44
between rounds 42 & 43 seven stitches apart (66 sts )
Stuff firmly as you go, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing f rom the head down into
the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 52: *Sc in each of the next 9 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (60 sts )
Rnd 53: *Sc in each of the next 8 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (54 sts )
Rnd 54: *Sc in each of the next 7 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around ( 48 sts )
Rnd 55: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (42 sts )
Rnd 56: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (36 sts )
Rnd 57: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (30 sts )
Rnd 58: *Sc in each o f the next 3 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (24 sts )
Rnd 59: *Sc in each of the next 2 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (18 sts )
Find the Video Tutorial for Day Two here .

~ 8 ~
Rnd 60: *Sc in the next st , sc2tog, repeat from * around (12 sts )
Rnd 61: Sc2tog around (6 sts )
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.










Option for Crocheted Eyes
^^ If you don’t want to use safety eyes, these eyes are an
excellent alternative which many people use for their Weebee
dolls
http://hodgepodgecrochet.net/…/how -to -crochet -eyes -for -
you…/

~ 9 ~
Day Three – Hands and Arms







Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch
marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: Using skin tone yarn for hand, MR, work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Work 3h dc in first st (creates hand shaping ), sc in each of the remaining 11 sts (14 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc, sc2tog, ch1 (counts as a st) , sc in each of the remaining 11 sts (14 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (14s ts)
Change colour for arm – fasten off skin tone yarn and using white yarn work a round of loose slip
stitches into the back loops only of roun d 6 and then work round 7 into the back loops of the slip
stitches. I show how to do this exact c olour change on the arm in the above CAL Video and also
in this video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZODAPmmdls
Rnd 7: Sc, sc2tog, sc in remaining 11 sts (13 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st arou nd (13 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 11 sts (12 sts)
Rnd 10 – 14 : Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Stuff hand firmly and the arm more and more lightly towards the top – the top of the arm should
have very little stuffing.
Rnd 15: Sc2tog around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the arm closed and into place on the body.
Sew arm into place 2 rows beneath the neck. I show how to do this in the CAL video linked to
above and I also have a separate video showing how I sew o n the arms on the Weebee and
Friends YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyjj_f1a1OM

Find the Video Tutorial for Day Three here .

~ 10 ~
Day Four – Hair










Hair Cap Pattern for Both Dolls…
Hair cap is worked in joined rounds, at the end of each round, join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on) work 11 hdc, join (as above) (11 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1 , 2h dc in same st, work 2hdc in each st around, join (22 sts )
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in same st *2hdc in next st, hd c in next st , repeat from * around, ending with 2hdc
in last st, join (33 sts )
Rnd 4: Ch1 , hdc in each of the first 2 sts , *2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat
from * around, ending with 2hdc in last st, join (44 sts )
Rnd 5: Ch1 , hdc in each of the first 3 sts, *2hdc in ne xt st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat
from * around, ending with 2hdc in last st, join (55 sts )
Rnd s 6-16 : Ch1 , hdc in back loop only of each st around , join (55 sts )
Rnd 17: Ch1 , sc in back loop only of each stich around , join (55 sts )
Fasten off leaving a long tail to gather for the parting (s) and sew cap to dolls head.
Advice for hair caps…
My hair cap is too small!
If you find that the cap is too snug, you ca n pull back your work to round 5 (55 sts) and work an
extra increase round to increase th e cap by 10 stitches. So round 6 would be Ch1 , hdc in each of
the first 4 sts, *2hdc in ne xt st, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around, ending with
2hdc in last st, join (66sts ) Then you would just work your straight rounds until the cap fits as
above.
My hair cap is too big!
If you find that the cap is a bit roomy, you have two options, you ca n pull back your work to round
4 (44 sts) and repeat the straight rounds from there to reduce the cap by 10 stitch es or you can try
Find the Video Tutorial for Day Four here .

~ 11 ~
this first - gathering in the cap at the front draw s it in a bit of course but you may need to do a little
more than that. After round 17 work a round of slip stitches nice and tightly and this may draw it in
enough to fit more comfortably.

Boy Only
Using the method either in the CAL video linked to on the previous page or in this video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8emU9544Xw gather the cap in two places either side of the
head weaving in and out of 6 rounds.
Then s ew the cap to head using a whip st and then hide any loose ends – see CAL video or this
separate video if you need help with this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vi4Hy9LoteI

Girl Only
Using the method in this vide o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8emU9544Xw gather the cap
in one place, where your tail end is, weaving in and out of 6 rounds.
Sew cap to head using a whip st in desired way and then hide any loose ends – see CAL video or
this video if you need help with this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vi4Hy9LoteI


Pigtails – make 2
*Ch13, work 2hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end,
repeat from * twice more – please see the CAL video linked to on
the previous page if you need help with these.
Sew hair curls on to each side of the head, low down so that th e
doll c an wear her bunny hat - please see the CAL video linked to
on the previous page if you need help with these.


Finishing Touches
Eyelashes
To add eyelashes, take a decent length of your chosen colour of yarn and split it into smaller
strands, e.g. my DK weight yarn splits into 3 strands. Take one strand and use it to sew two
eyelashes above each eye at an angle – see this video for how to do this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJScunG99is
Repeat for the other eye.

Blush
To add colour to your dolls cheeks, you can use ordinary blusher and a blusher brush, sweep it
beneath the eye at an angle up towards the hair line – see CAL video.

~ 12 ~
Day Five – Hat & Tail


Bunny Tail
Tail is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds.
You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the
beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first
stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: Using chosen yarn colour for tail MR, ch1 (not a st), work
6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc , 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnds 4 -6: Sc into each st around (18sts)
Rnd 7: *Sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Stuff lightly.
Rnd 8: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off l eaving a tail. Sew hole closed and attach to doll’s bottom – please see CAL video
above if you need help with this
B unny B eanie Hat
Hat is worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end of each round join last st to first with
a sl st.
Rnd 1 : With main colour chosen for body, ch1 (not a st from now on) MR, work 6hdc, join as
above (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join (12sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1 , work 2hdc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1 , hdc in first st, 2hdc in second st, *hdc in next st , 2hdc in next st , repeat from * around,
joining last st to first with a sl st (36sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1 , hdc in each of the first two sts, 2hdc in third st, *hdc in each of the next 2 sts , 2hdc in
next st, repeat from * around, join (48sts)
Find the Video Tutorial for Day Five here

~ 13 ~
Rnd 6 : Ch1 , hdc in each of the first 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in each
of the next 7 sts , 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around, join (54 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, hdc in the firs t st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts, 2hdc in
next st, *hdc in each of the next 26 sts, 2 hdc in next st, join (56sts)
Rnds 8 – 12 : Ch1 , hdc into each st around, join (56 sts)
Change colour to accent colour if desired…
You can find a video tutorial for changing colour this way here – bearing
in mind that the tutorial is showing these steps for a continuous round rather than joined, so ignore
the yarn over in a new colour, the actual colour change steps remain the same th ough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZODAPmmdls
Rnds 13 – 16 : Ch1 , h dc into each st around, join (56 sts)
Rnd 17: Ch1, sc into each st around, join (56sts)
Sl st around LOOSELY* , fasten off and hide any loose ends.
*If you cannot slip stitch loosely, simply fasten off.

Ears – make 2
Ear is worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end of each round join last st to first with
a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1, wo rk 6hdc, join (as above) (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc in each st around, join (6sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in first st, 2hdc in second st, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around,
join (9sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc in each of the first two sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2hdc in
next s t, repeat from * around, join (12 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc in each of the first three sts, 2hdc in next st st, *hdc in each of the next 3 sts,
2hdc in next st , repeat from * around, join (15 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc in each of the first four sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in each of the next 4 sts, 2hdc in
next st , repeat from * around, join (18 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, hdc in each of the first five sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2hdc in
next st, re peat from * around, join (21 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1, hdc in each of the first six sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in each
of the next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around, join (24sts)
Rnds 9 – 16: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join (24sts)
To close up the botto m of the ear, fold it in half and sl st LOOSELY*
across through the 2 loops either side (4 in total) (12 sl sts) Please see
video a bove if you need help with this.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
*If you cannot slip stitch loosely, fasten off leaving a lo ng tail and sew up
the bottom of the ear instead.

~ 14 ~
Fold the ear in half again and sew the two sides at
the bottom together.
Then sew the ear s onto the hat, 10 rounds up from
the bottom and 13 stitches apart, making sure that
both the very bottom of the ear as well as the
bottom of the upper side is well s ewn on to make it
stand upright – please see CAL video linked to
above for clarification of this step.

Nose
Taking a length of black yarn, embroider a Y shaped nose as
shown in this photo and in the CAL v ideo linked to on previous
page.


Little Almond Shaped Bunny Eyes
Rnd 1: Taking black yarn, MR, ch1 (not a st), work 2hdc, 3sc, 3hdc,
3sc, hdc into the ring, close and join last st to first with a sl st (12sts)
Fasten off black yarn.
Rnd 2: Attach white yarn and sl st LOOSELY * into t he back loops
of each st around – *if you cannot sl st loosely just sc around once
into the back loops only , igno ring round 3.
Rnd 3: Sl st LOOSELY into the back loops of each sl st around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using tail highlight the eye by working a small v shape over one of
the black sts. Then use the rest of the tail to sew the eye onto the hat, using a whip stitch through
the hat and the back lo ops on the last round of sl sts – please see CAL v ideo on previous page.




~ • ~
I hope you have enjoyed completing this crochet
along! Please share your Weebee projects with us
in the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook
Group and don’t forget to add your
project to Ravelry!
~ • ~
A big thank you goes to my amazing admin team in
the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Group,
Bianca, Christie, Liz and Jess, for all of your help
with both the group and this CAL pattern!
You’re all stars! Thank you so much! xxxx
~ • ~

~ 15 ~
Planning Your Next Weebee Doll?
Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Group
This is the Facebook group dedicated to Weebee and currently has over 5 .5 k friendly and helpful
members ( April 2017). I like to post sneak peaks of new patterns there and host the odd mystery
Crochet Along ! All of our wonderful members are very friendly and helpful and share their
spectacular Weebee dolls there for inspiration !
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1590618731240406/
I have five sizes of doll at present , Baby Weebee (2.5 inches tall in DK), Little Weebee (just under
5 inches tall with DK), Standard Size Weebee, which we have made in this CAL, Moll Moll, a large
sitting doll (12 inches tall from toe to head and with the head with a circumference of 19. 5 inches
in DK weight yarn) and my latest doll Nelly (10.5 inches tall in DK)

All of the basic doll patterns with the exception of Moll Moll are available to download for free in my
Ravelry store. There are also many clothing patterns available for Little Weebee and my Standard
Size Weebee dolls, many of them free. All of which can be found here:
http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura -tegg
Like Weebee dolls not all yarns are made equal…
It is highly recommended that you use the same weight and brand of yarn when making your
Weebee dolls and their clothing as there can be a very big difference between brands and even
colours within the same brand e.g. the dolls i make with Stone are always sligh tly smaller than the
ones I make with Parchment. Here's an inter esting article about this issue:
http://www.planetjune.com/b…/worsted -weight -yarn -comparison/
When making the clothing I have tried very hard to make the patterns as versatile as possible. In
theory as long as you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn,
the same weight of yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls. However, some
people have commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very firmly (one
person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have much give. If
this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I can, as
although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff th em so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them into
the clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of
stretch to it. Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has
very little give or use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size
when making any of the items of clothing. I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a
good point at which to try the pieces on before you work a ny further, so that you can rework what
you have done so far with a different sized hook if you need to.

~ 16 ~
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Where can I find all of the pattern s for the Weebee dolls and their clothing ?
All the patterns ca n be found in my Ravelry store: http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura -tegg
All of the patterns listed here are free!

2. Is the clothing removable?
All Weebee clothin g is removable over the dolls feet.
3. What size safety eyes do you use?
I recommend 10 -12mm safety eyes for my standard size doll, 7 -12mm for Little Weebee and 20 -
24mm for Moll Moll – but I’ve seen lots of people use different sizes and styles and all of their dolls
look brilliant.
4. Where can I find the crocheted eyes I see people making for their Weebee dolls?
If you don’t want to use safety eyes, these eyes are an excellent alternative which many people
use for their Weebee dolls http://hodgepodgecrochet.net/…/how -to -crochet -eyes -for -you…/
5. I keep seeing different hair and clothing for Weebee dolls that aren't in your patterns
where can I find them?
People li ke to get creative and do their own thing with the dolls. It's worth checking out YouTube
for ways to do 'amigurumi doll hair' as there are lots of different ways to d o it . Here’s a useful blog
post showing how to create different sized crochet curls http://www.1dogwoof.com/crochet -curly -
cue -sampler/
6. I want to make my doll some knickers, panties, undies etc. where can I find a pattern?
There are knickers worked onto the body's of bot h the Princess Weebee doll and Flower Fairy
dolls but if you want to make a removable pair please see this step by step pattern here
http://www.ravelry.com/pattern s/library/weebee -doll --- step -by -step -underwear
8. What yarn do you use for your dolls Laura?
Here in the UK it's difficult to get hold of anything other than DK weight yarn. I prefer Stylecraft
Special DK, it's reasonably priced, lovely to work with and comes in lots of colours. I like
Parchment, Stone and Soft Peach for skin tones and I have used Brown, Saffron, Gold, Mocha,
Copper, Spice and Candyfloss (Fairy Weebee) for hair so far. I have found Wool Warehouse to be
the best online retailer for Stylecraft Special DK, cheaper than others, arrives quickly and comes in
lovely storage bags. You can also buy colour packs which means the yarn is even cheaper per

~ 17 ~
ball. It takes me just under half a 100g skein of Stylecraft Special DK to make a standard size
naked doll in one colour. My dolls made in DK weight yarn and with a 3.5mm hook measure 9.5
inche s tall, with a head with a circumference of 16 inches. The many dolls that I have seen made
with worsted weight yarn varied from 12 to 14 inches tall with heads with a circumference of 17 to
19 inches dependant upon brand and hook size. Personal gauge an d how well you stuff your dolls
plays a part too of course.
9. Which yarns are good for skin tones and available to those of us who use worsted
weight yarns?
Here’s a blog post which you should find helpful: http://freshstitches.com/suggestions -for -skin -
color -yarns/
10. I've made two dolls in the same weight of yarn but they're completely different sizes,
why?
There can be a big differen ce between brands and even colours within the same brand e.g. the
dolls i make with Stone are always smaller than the ones i make with Parchment. Here's an
interesting article about this issue http://www.planetjune.com/b…/worsted -weight -yarn -
comparison/
11. What is the difference between all of the dolls, are they all different sizes?
I have four sizes of doll, Baby Weebee (2.5 inches tall in DK), Little Weebee (just under 5 inches
tall with DK), Standard Size Weebee, which we will be making this week and Moll Moll, a large
sitting doll (12 inches tall from toe to head and with the head with a circumference of 19.5 inches
in DK weight yarn). All of the basic doll patterns with the exception of Moll Moll are available to
download for free in my Ravelry store. I also have two special versions of my standard size
Weebee dolls for sale, Elf Weebee and Mermaid Weebee. There are also clothing patterns
available for Little Weebee and my Standard Size Weebee dolls, many of them free:
http://www.ravelry.co m/designers/laura -tegg
12. How can I wash my crochet dolls?
Here is a useful page a member of the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook group linked
to :...https://missdolkapots.wordpress.com/…/how -to -wash -crochet -…/
13. How big is a standard size Weebee doll?
My Weebee dolls are designed so that you can use whatever weight of yarn is convenient for you.
Here in the UK it's hard to get hold of anything other than DK, a light worsted weight yarn. In the
US, for example, worsted weight is more common. As long as you use a hook size appropriate to
the yarn ty pe so that your stitches are nice and tight, you can use whatever you have in your stash
without having to go buy extra yarn. My standard size Weebee dolls stand at 9 inches tall with DK
weight yarn, depending on what yarn weight and brand you use, I've se en them as small as 7
inches tall and as tall as 14 inches. My dolls heads are 16 inches in circumference in DK weight
yarn too and the size of the head increases and decreases proportionally to the above heights.
Personal gauge and how well you stuff your dolls plays a part too of course. Each Weebee seems
to be individual, people have struggled to make two exactly the same, but that's part of the ir charm
I think.