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Type of: pdf
Founded: 08.01.2021
Added: 26.01.2021
Size: 1.77 Мб

A jumpsuit is a comfortable, easy-to-wear garment
suitable for day or night.
Wear it with small heels and co-ordinating accessories or, for special occasions,
add killer heels, statement necklace and clutch bag
1 – Bodice front – cut 1
2 – Bodice back – cut 2
3 – Trouser front – cut 2
4 – Trouser back – cut 2
5 – Front facing – cut 2
6 – Back facing - cut 1
on fold (150cm) or
cut 1 (115cm)
7 – Sleeve - cut 2
8 – Pocket - cut 2
9 – Pocket - cut 2

• 3.6m 115cm-wide or 3.1m
150cm-wide fabric

• 70cm iron-on interfacing

• 45cm open-ended zip

• 50cm 12mm-wide
bias binding

• 50cm 6mm-wide elastic

• safety pin

• matching sewing thread
This jumpsuit has a partially
elasticated waist for comfort and
a fashionable exposed zip at
the centre front. Darts provide
shaping and there are in-seam
pockets at hip level. If you
prefer, you can leave out the
pockets to achieve a smoother
hip line
Use a 1.5cm (⁵⁄₈”) seam
allowance throughout, unless
otherwise stated If your fabric is 115cm wide, cut
it in half across the width, and
then turn one piece over and
lay it right side down on top of
the other – both opened out
flat, with selvedges matching. If
your fabric is 150cm wide, fold
it in half widthways. Trace off
the pattern pieces – bodice
front, bodice back, trouser
front, trouser back, sleeve, front
facing, back facing, pocket.
After preparing your fabric,
fold it as shown on the layout
for the width of fabric you are
working with. Lay out the pattern
pieces as shown. Measure to
the selvedge to make sure that
the grain is straight. Cut out and
transfer markings to the fabric.
Stay-stitch the bodice front
and back neck edges 13mm
from the edge by stitching
with a regular 2.5 stitch
length just inside the seam
allowance, sewing from the
side edges to the centre.
2 Fold, pin and stitch the waist
darts in the bodice back and
the bust and waist darts in the
bodice front pieces. Press the
waist darts towards the centre
front or back, and the bust
darts downwards. (See Fig 2.) 3
With right sides together, pin
and stitch the back bodice
pieces together. Neaten the
seam allowances and press
the seam open. With right
sides together, matching the
notches, pin and stitch the
bodice fronts to the back at
the shoulders and side seams.
Neaten the seam allowances
and press the seams open.
(See Fig 3.)
4 Fold, pin and stitch the darts
in the trouser backs and
fronts. Press the waist darts
towards the centre back.
(See Fig 4.)
5 With right sides together,
matching the notches and
aligning the raw edges, pin
one pocket to a trouser front.
Stitch, taking a 1cm seam.
Press the seam towards the
pocket. Apply the remaining
pocket pieces to the other
trouser front and the trouser
back pieces in the same way.
(See Fig 5.)
6 With right sides together, pin
one trouser front to one
trouser back at the inside leg
and stitch. Repeat for the
other trouser leg. Neaten the
seam allowances and press
45”/115cm-wide fabric 60“/150cm-wide fabric
7 6
4 3 7
5 8
2 9
2 3
4 5

the seams towards the back.
(See Fig 6.)
7 With right sides together, stitch
one trouser front to a trouser
back at the side seams,
pivoting at the large circle
at the top of the pocket,
stitching around the pocket
and pivoting again at the
bottom large circle before
continuing down the side
seam. Clip diagonally into the
seam allowance below the
pocket. Repeat for the other
trouser leg. Press the seams
towards the back. (See Fig 7.)
8 Turn the pockets towards
the front pieces along
the seam lines. Press and
tack the pockets to the
upper edge. (See Fig 8.)
9 To stitch the crotch seam, turn
one trouser leg right side out
and slip it into the other one
so that the right sides are
together, matching the side
and centre seams. Stitch from
the centre back to the large
circle. Stitch again close to
the first row, just within the
seam allowance, then trim
the seam allowance close to
the stitching. Press the seam
open. Turn the trousers right
side out. (See Fig 9.)
10 With right sides together, matching the seams, darts and
raw edges, pin the bodice
over the waistline of the
trousers. Stitch, then press the
seam allowances up towards
the bodice. (See Fig 10.)
11 To form the waistline casing for the side elastic, cut two
15-cm lengths of bias binding.
Open out one long edge of
the bias binding and fold the
short end in by 6mm. Pin the
binding to the seam allowance
on the inside of the garment
between the dots at the sides,
placing the crease from the
fold of the binding close to
the seam between the bodice
and the trousers. At the other
end of the binding, again turn
the short end of the bias tape Turn up 2.5cm and slip-stitch
in place. (See Fig 18.)
19 With RST, pin the sleeve into the armhole, placing the
large circle at the shoulder
seam. Adjust the ease, tack
and stitch. Stitch again. Trim
and neaten the raw edges
together. Press the seam
towards the sleeve. Repeat for
the second sleeve. (See Fig 19.)
20 Cut two pieces of elastic 5cm longer than the bias
binding. Attach a safety pin
to one end of the elastic
and feed right through the
binding. Ensure the free end
doesn’t disappear inside the
casing. Pin the elastic through
all the layers at the start
and end of the elastic and
try the garment on. Check
for comfort and adjust if
necessary by tightening or
loosening the elastic. Once
you are happy with the fit
stitch vertically down through
the casing and the elastic to
anchor in place. (See Fig 20.)
21 Turn the lower edge of the legs to the wrong side by
3cm and press. Press under
the raw edge by 6mm and
stitch close to the inner edge
to finish the hem.
The Great British Sewing Bee: From Stitch to Style
by Wendy Gardiner
(Quadrille £25) © 2016
Love Productions. Photography
© 2016 Jenni Hare.
in. Stitch in the crease. Repeat
for the other side seam.
(See Fig 11.)
12 Press the binding up towards the bodice and stitch along
the top edge through all
thicknesses. (See Fig 12.)
13 Fuse 2.5cm strips of interfacing to the wrong side of the
zip-placement area on the
centre front bodices. Insert the
exposed zip (see tutorial, right.)
With this method, the teeth
of the zip are exposed as a
design feature, but no stitching
is visible on the right side of
the garment.
14 Apply the interfacing pieces to the front facing and back
fabric facings. With right sides
together, stitch the facing
sections together at the
shoulder seams. Then
neaten the outer edge of
the facing by overlocking,
overedge-stitching or turning
a narrow hem.
15 With right sides together, matching the notches and
shoulder seams, pin the
facing to the bodice. Stitch
the neck edge. Grade the
seam allowance by cutting
the garment seam allowance
nearest the garment to
1cm and the facing seam
allowance to 6mm.
16 Under-stitch the facing along the neck edge. Turn the facing
to the inside of the garment.
Slip-stitch the edge of the
facing to the zip tape and the
facing to the shoulder seams.
17 Ease-stitch (stitch two rows just inside the seam line with
a long stitch length) the
upper edge of the sleeve
between the notches. With
RST, matching the notches,
fold and stitch the sleeve.
Repeat for second sleeve.
(See Fig 17.)
18 Neaten the raw edge of the sleeve by overlocking,
overedge or zigzag stitching. 6
6 Press the seam allowances
open. Note that above the
seam, the zip opening has a
gap and the little triangles of
fabric are pointing up.
7 Flip the garment so that the
RS is uppermost and pin
the zip right side down, with
the zip stop end just below
the horizontal tacking and
the zip pull towards the hem.
Stitch across the bottom
of the zip, in line with the
previous tacking – just across
the centre of the zip, not all
the way across the zip tape.
8 Flip the zip up and push it to
the inside of the garment,
so that only the teeth are
exposed from the RS. On
the WS, the little triangles
of fabric should now be
pointing downwards. 9
Turn the garment right side
out and anchor the zip tape
to the seam allowance only,
using double-sided tape
or temporary glue. Turn back
one side so that only the
seam allowance is uppermost,
with the zip tape in place
underneath. Machine-sew
down the vertical tacking
stitches. Repeat for the other
side of the zip. Turn the
garment over and you will
see a beautifully inserted zip
with the teeth exposed.
This method just has the teeth on view, with no stitching visible on the right side of the garment
1 Neaten the raw edges of the
seam allowances into which
the zip is to be inserted.
Press. Fuse 2.5cm-wide strips
of interfacing to the wrong
side of the zip placement
area on each piece.
2 On the WS of the fabric mark
the zip placement lines with
a chalk pencil, marking the
length to just below the zip
stop and the sides, 2cm each
side of the neatened edges.
Hand- or machine-tack along
the marked lines.
3 Snip diagonally into the
seam allowances, starting
1cm above the end of the
basting and down towards
the corners, making sure you
don’t clip the basting stitching.
4 Fold the seam allowance of
the zip placement areas to
the wrong side along the
tacking stitching and press.
5 With RST, stitch the remaining
seam from the horizontal
tacking line down to the
hem, taking a 1.5cm seam
allowance. (This will NOT
line up with the folded
zip placement area, which has
been folded at 2cm.)