Projectarian - Halo the labrador.PDF

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Founded: 28.10.2020
Added: 12.01.2021
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1

2








Halo is the third design in Projectarian’s pupp
series. She’s a special emotional support dog,
with a magical winged cape and shining halo
that give her magical powers of comfort and
love.











I hope this project brings you peace and
happiness!
- Jessie

Share your projects with me and your fellow
Projectarians on Facebook or Instagram by
tagging them with #HaloTheLabrador.






Radiates warmth and light to
brighten your darkest days.

Wraps RXLQDQJHOVZLQJVVRRWKLQJ
your worries and sadness.

Guaranteed to be your bestest best
friend, forever.

3









Written in US terminology
Size: +/ - 30 cm tall, standing
Difficulty: Intermediate


- Double knit (which is the equivalent to yarn
weight 3, light worsted, 8 ply or 11 wpi).
Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that
calls for a 4 mm hook or that has a weight
similar to 3 m/g.

- 4 ply (which is the equivalent to yarn
weight 2, fingering or 14 wpi).
Yarn conversion: Choose yarn with a label that
calls for a 3 mm hook or that has a weight
similar to 3. 7 m/g.



Instructions for the skills listed below can be
found in the Amigurumi Tips booklet
included with this pattern.

• Working in rows
• Working in the round (in a spiral)
• Accurately counting stitches and rows
• Using stitch markers and running stitch
markers
• Basic sewing
• Invisible decrease
• Crocheting into the sides of rows

4



DOUBLE KNIT
Body Colour (all other pieces ): 155 g/ 465 m
Accent Colour 1 (inner lining of ears ):
10 g/30m

4 PLY
Accent Colour 2 (pupils, nose, toe
separation stitches ): 2g/8m
Accent Colour 3 (toe & paw pads ):
10g/40m
Eye White (sclera , reflections ): 2g/8m
Eye Colour (iris es ): 1g/3m



ELLE LULLABY, DK ACRYLIC
Body Colour: Monarch

CHARITY , DK ACRYLIC
Accent Colour 1: Apricot

ELLE PURE GOLD, 4 PLY ACRYLIC
Accent Colour 2: Titanium
Eye White : Lily
Eye Colour : Riviera

ELLE BABY VINTAGE , 4 PLY ACRYLIC
Accent Colour 3: Melon

You may substitute Accent Colour 3
with double knit weight yarn instead,
and use a 2 mm hook for those pieces
of the pattern.

Cotton yarn is not recommended for this
project as it can be tough to sew.



To make your puppy recognizable as a
Labrador, use solid colours (or a low -contrast
variegated yarn ) for all the pieces. Natural
Labrador colours are Black, Chocolate and
Yellow. They have black, brown or pink noses
and paws.


• 1.5 mm hook (eye s)
• 2 mm hook (toe & paw pads )
• 2.5 mm hook (all other pieces )
• Scissors
• Yarn sewing needle
• Soft, springy stuffing – approx 150 g
• Pins with a large head
• Stitch markers

See the gauge section on page 6 for more
info on choosing hook sizes.




R - row/round
SS - slip stitch /surface stitch
SC - single crochet
HDC - half double crochet
DC - double crochet
TRC - triple crochet
KS - knit stitch
Ch/ch -sp - chain/chain -space
St/st -sp - stitch/stitch -space
Incr - increase
Decr - decrease
* - section to be repeated
[…] - all stitches worked into the same space
Rem - remaining
Sk - skip
FLO - front loop only
BLO - back loop only
WS - wrong side
RS - right side
YO - yarn over

5







TRC: YO twice, draw up a loop (4 loops on
hook). *YO, draw through 2 loops* X 3.
KS (knit stitch)***: See page s 15 -16.
SC -decr: Use an invisible decrease by default.
SC -incr: Work 2 SC into the same space .
DC -incr: Work 2 DC into the same space .
HDC -incr: Work 2 HDC into the same space .
KS -incr: Work 2 KS into the same space .
KS -decr: Work 2 sts tog ether via KS (see page
16).

***Also known as the centre single crochet stitch
or waistcoat stitch.


Chains and slip stitches do not count as stitches.
Do not include these when counting your
stitches and do not work into them unless
specifically indicated.



Chains should not be worked very tightly. Keep
your tension so that each chain is the same
length as a SC stitch. This will ensure the correct
starting chain height for every row that is
started with a chain, and the correct tension for
chains or chain spaces that will have stitches
worked into them.


When directed to ‘join with a SS,’ simplGUDZXS
a loop of yarn at th e indicated stitch. Do not
chain or use a slipknot unless indicated.

When directed to work over a loose end after
joining new yarn, work over it for about 3
stitches. This will secure the thread sufficiently
without causing a visible bump at the join.








In the photos, some running stitch markers are
kept in place after instructions to remove them,
for design purposes only. You may remove
yours as directed.



When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to the
instructed length * and then simply pull the
loose end through the current loop on your
hook. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid making a
knot. On some parts you will be directed to
chain and tie off, where a knot i s required.

*Unless directed to leave a certain length of yarn,
leave a tail just long enough for weaving in.


On body parts that start with a magic ring,
weave in your starting thread to secure it
after working the first few rounds , unless
otherwise indicated.



When RXILQLVKVHZLQJDSLHFHGRQWWLHDNQRW
but weave the loose end in and out of the body
and its stitches in the area near where you
finished sewing until the end is well secured.
Then cut it close to the body so it pulls back
inside. Be careful not to distort the body when
weaving in ends.



There are pictures of the completed puppy on
page 45 for reference.

6








To achieve the most uniform results, it is
advisable to stick to one brand of yarn as far as
possible. Yarn thickness may vary wildly
between different brands labelled as the same
weight. Thickness may even differ between
various colours of the same brand of yarn, even
when theUHODEHOOHGDVWKHVDPHZHLJKW Use
the gauge swatches below to adjust your
tension and/or tools as needed.

How to use gauge swatches: Use the
suggested hook size with your yarn of choice
and follow the gauge patterns below. If yo ur
swatch comes out bigger than desired, try
smaller hooks until your swatch matches the
gauge pattern. Use larger hooks to increase the
size of your swatch.

These gauges only apply to your project if you
match their size precisely with your yarn. If
RX re making your project in a different size to
this pattern your gauge will not match and it
may require extra trial and error to find the
correct hook size for your yarn.

SC GAUGE
2.5 mm hook , DK yarn :
6 cm X 6 cm block = 12 SC X 13 rows.
2 mm hook , 4 ply yarn* :
3 cm X 3 cm block = 8SC X 8 rows.
1.5 mm hook, 4 ply yarn:
3 cm X 3 cm block = 9SC X 10 rows.

KNIT STITCH GAUGE
2.5 mm hook , DK yarn :
3 cm X 3 cm block = 7KS X 8 rows.

*Match this gauge with DK DUQLIou’re
substituting Accent Colour 3 with DK.



This model has not been tested for safety. It
may not be suitable for babies or young
children.



• This pattern document is protected by
universal copyright law.
• The design concept of the character in
this pattern is protected by copyright;
the idea may not be copied.
• This pattern is not available for free.
• You may not share this document or
any part of it by any means
whatsoever. Redistribution in any
form is strictly prohibited.
• Reproduction by filming is prohibited.
• This pattern is only available in
English. Language translations are
prohibited.
• You may not claim any part of this
design as your own under any
conditions.
• You may sell the finished items you
have made from this pattern.
• Using Projectarian’s images for RXU
own marketing purposes i s
prohibited.
• Selling yarn kits for this pattern is
prohibited without express consent
from the designer.

Remember, there is always a real person
behind the art!






In the future, e nter the coupon code during
checkout to get 40% off all puppy patterns!
Valid for all new puppies , as their patterns
are released.

7

Halo has a
versatile body
shape that you
can use to
make a variety
of different
dogs! Here are
some possible
colour
combinations
for inspiration.






Halo’s accessories are free add -ons that
come with this pattern. Make sure RXYH
downloaded both documents from your
shop account.

8








Make 4
Use a 2.5 mm hook

R1: Using Body Colour , ch4. Starting in 2 nd ch
from hook, 2SC , SC -incr in last ch. Working
down the opposite side of the ch, 2SC. (6)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker. Place a clip -on marker at
the starting ch4 for clarity and easy counting of
your rounds.

R2: SC -incr X 6. (12)
R3: *1SC , SC -incr* X 6. (18)
R4: *2SC, SC -incr* X 6. (24)
R5 -10: 24SC. (24)
R11: *SC -decr, 10SC* X 2. (22)



R12: *SC -decr, 9SC* X 2. Place a marker on each
of the decreases. (20)
R13 -16: 20SC. (20)

Do not tie off.

When you stuff the
paws (during the
next sections of the
pattern), keep in
mind they should
be firm enough to
support Halo in her
standing pose , with
some allowance for
bending the ankles .

9








Make 2
Continued from R16 of the paws, using a
2.5 mm hook



R1 7-20 : 20SC. (20)
R21 : 1SC, SC -incr, 9SC, SC -incr, 8SC. (22)
R22: 2SC, SC -incr, 10SC, SC -incr, 8SC. (24)
R23: 7SC, SC -decr X 2, 9SC, SC -incr X 2, 2SC. (24)





R24: 24SC. (24)
R25: 20SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (25)
R2 6: 25SC. (25)

Flatten the legs so that the markers on R12 are
on either side. Stuff the paw up to R20, keeping
it slightly flattened instead of round like a
sausage. The leg should be firm enough to stand
on but the ankle will need to bend in order for
the paws to stand flat (see page 37). Remove the
markers from R12.

10

R27 : 21SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (26)
R2 8: 26SC. (26)
R29 : 22SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (27)
R30 : 27SC. (27)
R31 : 23SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (28)
R32 : 28SC. (28)
R33 : 24SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (29)
R34 : 25SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (30)
R35 -38 : 30SC. (30)
R39 : 12SC, SC -incr, 17SC. Place a marker on the
12 th SC. (31)

Flip the leg so that the marker from R39 is on
the side.



From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in
the opposite direction to the paw, tapering it
towards the shoulder as you continue stuffing.
The leg should be firm up to R29 (with
allowance for bending the ankles) and the
remainder stuffed softly so that it can be easily
moulded onto the body (see pages 41 -43 for
how the legs should fit on the body).











R40 : 13SC, SC -incr, 17SC. (32)
R41 -46 : 32SC. (32)
R47 : *6SC , SC -decr* X 4. (28)
R48 : *5SC, SC -decr* X 4. (24)
R49 : *4SC, SC -decr* X 4. (20)
R50 : *3SC, SC -decr* X 4. (16)
R51 : *2SC, SC -decr* X 4. (12)
R52 : *1SC, SC -decr* X 4. (8)
R53 : SC -decr X 4. (4)

Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave
the clip -on markers in place and remove the
running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew
the opening closed like a drawstring.

Left: Front view. Right: Side view.



To help mould the leg into its final shape,
squash the paw to flatten it, while squashing the
rest of the leg in the opposite direction.
Additionally, you can rub the shoulder between
your palms to flatten it.

11








Make 2
Continued from R16 of the paws, using a
2.5 mm hook



R17: 1SC, SC -incr, 9SC, SC -incr, 8SC. (22)
R18: 2SC, SC -incr, 10SC, SC -incr, 8SC. (24)
R19: 7SC, SC -decr X 2, 9SC, SC -incr X 2, 2SC. (24)
R20: 20SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (25)
R21: 21SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (26)
R22: 22SC, SC -incr, 3SC. (27)



R23: 22SC, SC -incr, 4SC. (28)
R24: 23SC, SC -incr, 4SC. (29)
R25: 24SC, SC -incr, 4SC. (30)
R26 : 24SC, SC -incr, 5SC. (31)
R27: 25SC, SC -incr, 5SC. (32)
R28: 25SC, SC -incr, 6SC. (33)
R29: 26SC, SC -incr, 6SC. (34)
R30: 10SC , SC -incr X 2, 15SC, SC -incr, 6SC. Place
a marker at the last increase on R30 . (37)
R31: 11SC, SC -incr X 2, 17SC, SC -incr, 6SC. (40)

Flatten the legs so that the markers on R12 are
on either side. Stuff the paw up to R20, keeping
it slightly flattened instead of round like a
sausage. The a nkles should be able to bend like
the front legs’. Remove the markers from R12.

12




Flip the leg so that the marker from R30 is on
the side.



From this point on, flatten the rest of the leg in
the opposite direction to the paw, tapering it
towards the thigh as you continue stuffing. The
leg should be firm up to R29, with the
remainder stuffed softly so that it can be easily
moulded onto the body (see page s 41 -43 for
how the legs should fit on the body). Push
stuffing into the hock to make it protrude .



The leg should bend sharply at the hock and
again at the knee.



R32: 12SC, SC -incr X 2, 19SC, SC -incr, 6SC. (43)
R33: 13SC, SC -incr X 2, 21SC, SC -incr, 6SC. (46)
R34: 14SC, SC -incr X 2, 22SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (49)
R35: 15SC, SC -incr X 2, 24SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (52)
R36: 16SC, SC -incr X 2, 26SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (55)
R37 -40: 55SC. (55)
R41 : *9SC, SC -decr* X 5. (50)
R42 : *8SC, SC -decr* X 5. (45)
R43 : *7SC, SC -decr* X 5. (40)
R44 : *6SC, SC -decr* X 5. (35)
R45 : *5SC, SC -decr* X 5 . (30)
R46 : *4SC, SC -decr* X 5. (25)
R47 : *3SC, SC -decr* X 5. (20)
R48 : *2SC, SC -decr* X 5. (15)
R49 : *1SC, SC -decr* X 5. (10)
R50 : SC -decr X 5. (5)

Tie off, leaving a 70 cm thread for sewing. Leave
the clip -on markers in place and remove the
running stitch marker. Working into FLO, sew
the opening closed like a drawstring.

Left: Front view. Right: Side view.



To help mould the leg into its final s hape,
squash the paw to flatten it, while squashing the
rest of the leg in the opposite direction.
Additionally, you can rub the thigh between
your palms to flatten it.

13








PAW PADS
Make 4
Use 4 ply yarn and a 2 mm hook



R1: Using Accent Colour 3 , 8SC in magic ring . (8)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.

R2: [1SS, 1HDC] in the next st. DC -incr, [1HDC,
1SS] in the next st. [1HDC, 1DC] in the next st.
[1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. 1SS, [1HDC, 1DC] in
the next st. [1DC, 1HDC] in the next st. (15, incl
SS)
R3: Note: The SS of this R are worked into the
SS of the pr evious R. 1SS, 1SC, SC -incr X 2, 1SC,
1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st. [1DC, 1TRC] in
the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the next st. [1HDC,
1SC] in the next st. 1SS, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next
st. [1DC, 1TRC] in the next st. [1TRC, 1DC] in the
next st. [1HDC, 1SC] in the next st. (25, incl SS)

SS in the next st to taper off your round . T ie off,
leaving a 45 cm thread for sewing. Remove the
running stitch marker.

14

TOE PADS
Make 18 (5 per front paw, 4 per back paw)
Use 4 ply yarn and a 2 mm hook



R1: Using Accent Colour 3 , 5SC in magic ring . (5)

Continue working in the round.

R2: SC -incr X 5. (10)

SS in the next st to taper off your round . T ie off,
leaving a 25 cm thread for sewing . The loose
end from R1 can be bundled up under the toe
as stuffing.

15










Knit Stitch (KS) Gauge
3 cm X 3 cm block = 7KS X 8 rows



You may need to practise the knit stitch for a
few rows before making your muzzle. Practise
with thick yarn that doesn’t split easilDQGXVH
an over -sized hook to get the hang of the KS. If
you already know how to work the knit
stitch, skip to page 17 .



In order to work the knit stitch, it’s important
that you are able to see and recognize the
various loops that make up a SC stitch. The
illustrations in this section show SC stitches
worked with a large hook and thick yarn (8 mm
and mega chunky) for clarit y.

Inspect your SC stitches and note the V shape of
each stitch post. Turn your workpiece over (WS
facing up) and note that the V shape of the
stitch post is upside down on this side.

Left: RS. Right: WS .

16




The knit stitch is worked in exactly the same
manner as a SC, but into the stitch posts instead
of the stitch loops.

The KS on the muzzle will always be worked
- into th e upside -down V
- on the WS of your previous row
- directly below the 2 horizontal loops of
the SC

When working the KS, keep your tension loose.
The KS is tighter than the SC so it will be difficult
to get y our hook through the correct spaces
using the same tension as you have for the rest
of this project.

On the muzzle, row 2 will be the foundation for
your KS. You will work KS in row 3 and onwards.

To start a practise swatch , ch10, starting in
the 2 nd ch from hook, 1SC in each ch. (9)

To begin a row of KS, ch1, turn. Do not work
into the last st of your previous row but begin in
the 2 nd to last st post. Insert your hook through
the upside -down V and push it all the way
through the stitch post, so that it comes cleanly
out the right -side -up V on the other side of the
stitch, thus creating a KS through the exact
centre of the stitch post.







To finish off a row , the last stitch (or stitches, if
RXUHZRUNLQJDQLQFUHDVH VKRXOGEHZRUNHG
just like a regular SC into the last available stitch
loops of the previous row (just like you would
finish a regular row of SC).



To work a KS -increase , simply work 2KS into
the same space.



Work a KS -decrease in the same way as a
regular SC decrease (not like an invisible
decrease), but work into the stitch posts as you
did your other knit stitches.



To work a decrease at the end of a row , work
into the 2 nd to last st post and into the regular
loops of the last stitch.

17




MUZZLE
Use a 2.5 mm hook

At the end of R1 , do not pull the magic ring
tight or weave in the loose end yet. Work the
stitches in this row tighter than your regular
tension .

R1: Using Body Colour, 4SC in magic ring. (4)

From this point onwards, work all stitches
looser than your regular tension but keep
the tension of your turning chain as normal.

R2: Ch1, turn. SC -incr X 4. (8)

Tip: Your first row of KS (R3) will probably be
the most awkward to work but it should get
easier from here. From this point on, if you
struggle to get your hook through the
correct space, your tension is too tight.

R3: Ch1, turn. *1KS, KS -incr* X 4. (12)
R4: Ch1, turn. *2KS, KS -incr* X 4. (16)
R5: Ch1, turn. *3KS, KS -incr* X 4. (20)
R6: Ch1, turn. *4KS, KS -incr* X 4. (24)
R7 -8: Ch1, turn. 24KS. (24)
R9: Ch1, turn. KS -decr, 20KS, KS -decr. (22)
R10 -13: Ch1, turn. 22KS. (22)




EDGE AROUND THE MUZZLE

Ch1, starting in the same st as your last st of
R13, 1SC. Work 1SC into the side of each row for
the next 11 rows. (12SC in total)











SS into the magic ring at R1. Pull the magic ring
tightly closed and weave in the loose end. Work
1SC into the side of each row, finishing at R13.
(12SC in total)



Total st count = 25 (incl SS at magic ring)
Do not tie off.

See the Amigurumi
Tips booklet on
how to work into
the sides of the
rows.

18




Do not ch1. Turn, starting in the last SC that you
worked, 1SS in the next 24 sts, skipping the SS
at the magic ring.



Tie off, leaving a 35 cm thread for sewing.

19








Use a 2.5 mm hook

R1: Using Body Colour , 6SC in magic ring . (6)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.

R2: SC -incr X 6. (12)
R3: *1SC, SC -incr* X 6. (18)
R4: *2SC, SC -incr* X 6. (24)
R5: *SC -incr, 11SC* X 2. (26)
R6: 26SC. (26)
R7: 1SC, SC -incr, 12SC, SC -incr, 11SC. (28)
R8: 28SC. (28)
R9: 2SC, SC -incr, 13SC, SC -incr, 11SC. (30)
R10: 30SC. (30)
R11: 3SC, SC -incr, 14SC, SC -incr, 11SC. (32)


R12: 32 SC . (32)
R13: 5SC, *SC -incr, 3SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. (3 6)
R1 4: 36SC . (3 6)
R15: 6SC, *SC -incr, 4SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. ( 40 )
R1 6: 40SC . (40 )
R17: 7SC, *SC -incr, 5SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. ( 44 )
R1 8: 44SC . (44 )
R19: 8SC, *SC -incr, 6SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. ( 48 )
R20 : 48SC . (48 )
R21: 9SC, *SC -incr, 7SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. ( 52 )
R22 : 52SC . (52 )
R23: 10 SC, *SC -incr, 8SC * X 3, SC -incr, 14 SC. ( 56 )
R24 -33 : 56SC. (56)
R34: *6SC, SC -decr* X 7. (49)
R35: *5SC, SC -decr* X 7. (42)
R36: *4SC, SC -decr* X 7. (35)

20






















Stuff the snout, making it blunt, flat and firm.
Continue stuffing the head firmlEXWGRQW
overstuff it. Make sure that the muzzle still fits
over the snout, covering the whole of R1, up to
and including R12 .







The 4 increases of R13 should be cent red across
the top of the snout (marked in the image below
with black pins). Keep the bottom of the head
flat as you stuff it. Fill the forehead to make a
pear shape.

Side view .




R37: *3SC, SC -decr* X 7. (28)
R38: *2SC, SC -decr* X 7. (21)
R39: *1SC, SC -decr* X 7. (14)
R40: SC -decr X 7. (7)




Tie off and remove the running stitch
marker only . Working into FLO, sew the
opening closed like a drawstring and
weave in the loose end.

Front view.



Top view .



See the Assembly
section on page 37
for detailed muzzle
placement.

21








Make 2
Use 4 ply yarn and a 1.5 mm hook

SS do not count as stitches unless
specifically stated. Do not work into them
unless directed.

When you join new yarn, do not work the
loose ends in as you go .

R1: Using Accent Colour 2, 6SC in magic ring.
Join with a SS in 1 st SC (note: this particular
joining SS will be worked into later) . (6)
R2: Ch1, starting in the same st, SC -incr X 5,
leaving the last st unworked. (10)







Do not tie off. Remove the loop from your
hook and attach a marker to keep it from
unravelling.

22

R5: Work in BLO (incl ch & SS). 1SC in the
remaining st of R1. 1SC in the joining SS of R1.




SC -incr in the 1 st st of R2.



SC -incr in the 1 st st of R3.



1SC in the 1 st st of R4.





R3: Work in BLO. Join Eye Colour with a SS in the
2nd SC of R2. Ch1, starting in the same st, 8SC,
leaving the last SC of R2 unworked. (8)



Ch1, tie off.

R4: Work in BLO. Join Eye White with a SS in the
1st SC of R3. Do not ch1. Starting in the next st,
1SC, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st, ch1, [1HDC, 1SC]
in the next st, [1SC, 1HDC] in the next st, ch1,
[1HDC, 1SC] in the next st, 1SC, 1SS in the last st.
(13, incl ch & SS)





Tie off.

Return to R2, remove the marker and place the
Accent Colour 2 yarn back on your hook.

23

Example of SS worked in pink on Rocket the
Beagle’s eye for illustrative purposes.



Insert your hook at the 1 st Eye Colour st on R3 in
BLO and draw up a new loop of Eye Colour,
leaving a 10 cm tail.



Starting in the next st, work one surface stitch
into each of the next 7 sts (these are the same
sts that R4 is worked into). (7)



Tie off.

To tie off, do n ot ch 1, simply cut the yarn,
leaving a loose end. Pull that loose end to
the back of the eye, through the same st -sp
as your last SS.



1SC, [1SC, ch1, 1SC] in the next st (mark this ch
if you have trouble identifying your stitches) ,
6SC, [1SC, ch1, 1SC] in the next st, 2SC. Skip the
last SS of Eye White.



1SC in the next Eye Colour st. SC -incr in the next
Accent Colour 2 st (in the last SC of R2). Working
into both loop s again, 1SS in the next SC (in the
1st SC of R5). (26, incl ch & SS)

Tie off.



SURFACE STITCHES ON THE EYE

You will now be directed to work lines of SS
onto the eye along the borders between each
different colour to create crisp edges. Control
your tension so that the SS do not squeeze an d
deform the eye at all. To create the SS, simply
insert your hook into the desired space and
draw up a loop from the back of your workpiece
to the front, through that same stitch space.
Insert your hook in the next space as directed
and repeat, drawing up your yarn from the back
of the eye through each stitch as you go.

24

EYELIDS
Use DK yarn and a 1.5 mm hook

R1: Work in BLO. In the chain of the 1 st ch -sp on
R5, join Body Colour with a SS (remove any
markers used).




Ch1, starting in the same st, SC -incr, 8SC, SC -
incr, 3SC, SC -incr, 2SC, SC -incr (do not work into
the SS), 1SC, SC -incr, 2SC, SC -incr, 3SC. Working
into both loops again, join with a SS in the 1 st SC.
(31)












The next line of SS goes along the edge of the
sclera, in BLO. Insert your hook at the 1 st Eye
White st on R4 and draw up a new loop of Eye
White, leaving a 10 cm tail. 1SS into each of the
next 11 sts. (11)




Tie off and pull the loose end to the back of the
eye.

The next line of SS goes along the edge of the
pupil, in BLO. Working by the same method as
before, join Accent Colour 2 at the 1 st available
st on the edge of the pupil (this is the same st
where the Eye Colour is joined for R3 of the
eye). 1SS into each of the next 7 sts. (7)

Tie off and pull the loose end to the back of the
eye.

25

REFLECTIONS

Cut a 25 cm length of Eye White and sew 3
horizontal stitches on each eye as light
reflections.

On the left eye, the embroidery spans from the
1st st of the iris (st 1 of R3) to the 9 th st on R2
(the same st that the 7 th SS of the pupil is
worked into). The right eye is a mirror image of
the left.



To secure the reflections’ loose ends, tie them in
a knot at the back of the eye.



To keep all the loose ends secure, turn to the
back of the eye and give each thread a firm tug,
then weave them in. Remaining tails can be
bundled up under the eye during assembly.




R2: Do not ch1. Turn, sk the SS. Starting in the
last SC of R1 and working in BLO, 3SS, 13SC,
4SS. (20, incl SS)



R3: Do not ch1. Turn, working into the loops
left open on R 1 and starting in the 1 st available
st, 4SS, 13SC, 3SS. ( 20 , incl SS)




Tie off, leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing.

26








Make 2 in Accent Colour 1 (inner ears)
Make 2 in Body Colour (outer ears)
Use a 2.5 mm hook

R1: 2SC in magic ring. ( 2)
R2: Ch1, turn. SC -incr X 2. (4)
R3: Ch1, turn. *1SC, SC -incr* X 2. (6)
R4: Ch1, turn. *2SC, SC -incr* X 2. (8)
R5: Ch1, turn. 7SC, SC -incr. (9)
R6: Ch1, turn. 9SC. (9)
R7: Ch1, turn. SC -incr, 8SC. (10)
R8: Ch1, turn. 10SC. (10)
R9: Ch1, turn. 9SC, SC -incr. (11)
R10: Ch1, turn. 11SC. (11)
R11: Ch1, turn. SC -incr, 10SC. (12)
R12: Ch1, turn. 12SC. (12)
R13: Ch1, turn. 11SC, SC -incr. (13)
R14: Ch1, turn. 13SC. (13)

R15: Ch1, turn. SC -incr, 12SC. (14)
R16: Ch1, turn. 14SC. (14)
R17: Ch2, turn. 5HDC, 5SC, 3HDC, HDC -incr. (15)
R18: Ch2, turn. 5HDC, 5SC, 5HDC. (15)

Do not tie off.

27

JOINING THE EAR PIECES TOGETHER

The Accent Colour 1 pieces are the inner linings
of the ears and the Body Colour pieces are the
outer laHUV/HWVODEHOWKHP$DQG%
respectively.



R1: With RS of A facing up and WS of B facing
up, place A on top of B. Continue working with
Body Colour yarn. Ch1, then insert your hook in
the 1 st SC of A, working into the RS. Push your
hook through the last SC on B as well, working
into the WS. Both A and B are now on your
hook. Work 1SC to join the pieces.



Continue working through both layers A and B,
and work 1SC into each st around the edge. (42)



Tie off, leaving a 1.1 m thread for sewing.

Make the second ear the same way.




EDGE AROUND THE EARS

Ch1, working into the sides of the rows, 2SC in
each of the 1 st 2 rows.



1SC in each of the next 15 rows. When you
reach R1, work 2SC into the side of that row.



Skip the magic ring and work the loose end in as
you go. Working down the opposite side of the
ear, 2SC into the side of R1. 1SC in each of the
next 15 rows. 2SC i n the sides of each of the last
2 rows.



Total st count = 42

On the inner ears, ch1 then tie off.
On the outer ears, do not tie off.

28








Use 4 ply yarn and a 2.5 mm hook

Do not work the loose end in as you go;
weave it in at the end.

Using Accent Colour 2 , ch5. Starting in the 2 nd ch
from hook, SC -incr, 2SC, 4SC into the last ch .
Working down the opposite side of the ch,
1HDC, [1DC, ch1, 1DC] in the next ch, 1HDC, SC -
incr in the last ch . Join with a SS in the 1 st SC.
(15, incl ch)

Tie off, leaving a 30 cm thread for sewing.

29










Use a 2.5 mm hook

R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.

R2: SC -incr, 7SC. (9)
R3: 9SC. (9)
R4: 1SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (10)
R5: 10SC. (10)
R6: 2SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (11)
R7: 11SC. (11)
R8: 3SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (12)
R9: 12SC. (12)
R10: 4SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (13)
R11: 13SC. (13)
R12: 5SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (14)
R13: 14SC. (14)
R14: 6SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (15)

R15: 15SC. (15)
R16: 7SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (16)
R17: 16SC. (16)
R18: 8SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (17)
R19 -20: 17SC. (17)
R21: 9SC, SC -incr, 7SC. (18)
R22 -23: 18SC. (18)

SS in the next st to taper off your round . Tie off,
leaving a 40 cm thread for sewing, then stuff the
tail, allowing it to curve.

Tip : You can use the back of your hook to
push stuffing into the tip of the tai l.

Remove the running stitch marker.

30








Use a 2.5 mm hook

R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC in magic ring. (8)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.

R2: *1SC, SC -incr* X 4. (12)
R3: *2SC, SC -incr* X 4. (16)
R4: *3SC, SC -incr* X 4. (20)
R5: *4SC, SC -incr* X 4. (24)
R6: *5SC, SC -incr* X 4. (28)
R7: *6SC, SC -incr* X 4. (32)
R8: *7SC, SC -incr* X 4. (36)
R9: *8SC, SC -incr* X 4. (40)
R10: *9SC, SC -incr* X 4. (44)
R11: *10SC, SC -incr* X 4. (48)
R12: 20SC, SC -incr, 27SC. (49)
R13: 21SC, SC -incr, 27SC. (50)
R14: 22SC, SC -incr, 27SC. (51)
R15: 23SC, SC -incr, 27SC. (52)

R16: 23SC, SC -incr, 28SC. (53)
R17: 24SC, SC -incr, 28SC. (54)
R18: 25 SC, SC -incr, 28SC. (55)
R19: 26 SC, SC -incr, 28SC. (56)
R20: 26 SC, SC -incr, 29SC. (57)
R21: 27 SC, SC -incr, 29SC. (58)
R22: 28 SC, SC -incr, 29SC. (59)
R23: 29 SC, SC -incr, 29SC. (60)
R24 -32: 60SC. (60)
R33: *18SC, SC -decr* X 3. (57)
R34: 57SC. (57)
R35: *17SC, SC -decr* X 3. (54)
R36: 54SC. (54)
R37: *16SC, SC -decr* X 2, 16SC, leaving the last
2 sts unworked. (50)
R38: Ch1, turn. 44SC, leaving rem 6 sts (8 sts of
R37 in total) unworked. (44)
R39: Ch1, turn. *SC -decr, 19SC* X 2, SC -decr.
(41)

31





In the highlighted rows, work the decreases
in BLO. The alternate rows have regular
invisible decreases.

R40: Ch1, turn. SC -decr, 37SC, SC -decr. (39)
R41: Ch1, turn. SC -decr, 17SC, SC -decr, 16SC,
SC -decr. (36)
R42: Ch1, turn. SC -dec r, 32SC, SC -decr. (34)
R4 3: Ch1, turn. 16SC, SC -decr, 16SC. (33)
R4 4: Ch1, turn. 15SC, SC -decr, 16SC. (32)
R45: Ch1, turn. 15SC, SC -decr, 15SC. (31)
R46: Ch1, turn. 14SC, SC -decr, 15SC. (3 0)
R47: Ch1, turn. 14SC, SC -decr, 14SC. (29)
R48: Ch1, turn. 13SC, SC -decr, 14SC. (28)
R49: Ch1, turn. 13SC, SC -decr, 13SC. (27)
R50: Ch1, turn. 12SC, SC -decr, 13SC. (26)
R51: Ch1 , turn. 12SC, SC -decr, 12SC. (25)
R52: Ch1, turn. 11SC, SC -decr, 12SC. (24)

Stuff the body, making the stuffing light and
fluffy to keep the body lightweight.




R53 : Ch1, turn. 11SC, SC -decr, 11SC, ch5. Join
with a SS in 1 st SC of R53. (28, incl ch5)



Place a marker on the back -ridge loop of each
of the 5 chain sts (not on the SS). The markers
serve to make each chain easy to identify. Keep
them in place until dir ected to remove them.



Tip: When you reach the chains in the next
row , treat them like SC and work into both
loops (the loops that make a V), leaving only
the back -ridge loops of the chain unworked.
When working a decrease, treat it similarly
to a SC and work only into the front loops of
the chain (the loops closest to you), just as
you would a regular invisible decrease.

R54: Ch1, starting in 1 st SC of R53, *2SC,
SC -decr* X 7. (21)

Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marke r. This marker will be used
all the way up to the end of the neck section.

32





R55: Starting in the 1 st SC of R54, *1SC, SC -decr*
X 7. (14)
R56 : SC -decr X 7. (7)



Tie off. Working into FLO, sew the opening
closed like a drawstring and weave in the loose
end . Do not remove the running stitch
marker.

THE NECK

R1: Return to R54 of the body. With the hook
pointing towards the inside of the body, work
into the back -ridge loop of the chain sts and
remove the markers as you go. On RS of body,
insert your hook as illustrated into the 1 st
marked ch, join new yarn with a SS, ch1.





Starting in the same ch and working the loose
end in as you go, 1SC in each of the 5ch.



Skipping the first available row, 1SC into the
sides of each of the next 16 rows.



At R37, work 1SC in each of the 8 sts.

33





1SC into the sides of each of the next 16 rows.
(45)



Continue working in the round, using the
running stitch marke r from the chest.

R2 -4: 17SC, 16HDC, 12SC. (45)
R5: 18SC, 16HDC, 11SC. (45)
R6: 16SC, SC -decr, 16HDC, SC -decr, 9SC. (43)
R7: 15SC, SC -decr, 16HDC, SC -decr, 8SC. (41)
R8-13 : 41SC. (41)

SS in the next 2 sts to taper off your round . T ie
off, leaving a 65 cm thread for sewing . Finish
stuffing the body. Remove the running stitch
markers.


Side view.




Top view (dog’s spine).

34














It is advisable to pin your whole pup together
after sewing the paw pads to get an idea of the
pieces’ positions, as well as the character RXG
like to create. Then unpin everything and
assemble your puppy piece by piece.







As you assemble Halo, double check each
new attachment from all angles for
straightness and symmetry before sewing.

Since RXUSXSS’s parts are worked in the
round, they are made out of spirals. When
you attach sets of features (eyes, ears and
legs) onto her , they might not fall on the
exact same round in order to be
symmetrical. Inspect your placements
from all sides while pinning and adjust
them as needed for symmetry.






See the Amigurumi
Tips booklet for
sewing techniques.

35













The paws should be placed on the opposite
side to the markers on R 39 & 30, as
illustrated below.

Left: Front leg . Right: Back leg.



Mould each toe pad into a bowl shape and stuff
it with the loose end from the magic ring or use
a tiny bit of stuffing. Leave R1 of the paw open
then place 2 toe pads right next to each other
(with no space between them) on the bottom of
the paw and pin them.




Fill the paw pad with stuffing, then with the
loose end on the right -hand side, pin it in place
directlEHORZWKHWRHVVRWKDWLWVQHVWOHGULJKW
up to them, preserving the 3 -leaf clover shape.



Place 2 more toe pads on either side of the first
2, so that the y are nestled up to both the toe
pads and the paw pad, then pin them.



Make sure there is no open space between the
5 pieces then sew them in place onto the paw.

On the front legs, leave 3 ro und s open behind
the paw pad then pin and sew the fifth t oe pad
on each paw , centred with the paw pad .


Assembly of the
paws is
illustrated on
Rocket the
Beagle’s legs.

36






In the following instructions, the position of
the stitches to be sewn into the top of the
paw are a guide only. Depending on the
exact placement of your paw pads, you
might sew your toes in slightly different
positions. The goal is to split your paw
evenly into 4 toes by sewing 3 long, straight
stitches. The centre stitch should be shorter
than the 2 stitches on either side. Keep your
stitches tight as you go.

Remove any remaining markers . Mark the top
centre of the paw at R5. Add 2 more markers on
R7 with 6 sts open across the centre of the paw
between the 2 markers (so that there are 3 sts
open on either side of the middle marker).
Remove the markers as you sew into the
marked spaces.




Thread your needle with 40 cm of Accent Colour
2. Push your needle in between the 2 middle
toe pads of a paw, at the very edge of the paw
pad. Bring it out at the top centre of the paw (at
the middle marker) between R5 and 6, leaving a
10 cm thread under t he paw.




Bring your yarn over the front of the paw and
sew back into the starting point, but this time
push your needle out between the 2 left toe
pads as illustrated. Holding the loose end so it
doesn’t get pulled through, pull RXUVWLWFKWLJKt
to form the first toes.



Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again,
sew into the marked space as illustrated,
between R6 and 7 (left marker), pushing your
needle out between the remaining 2 toe pads
(your needle will go through the paw at an
an gle). Pull tight to form another toe.

37

Bring your yarn over the front of the paw again,
sew into the marked space as illustrated,
between R6 and 7 (right marker), pushing your
needle out at the starting point once again.
IMPORTANT: The loose end must come out of
the exact same stitch hole as th e starting
thread. Pull tight to form the last toe.




Making sure all toe stitches and loose ends are
pulled tight, tie the ends together in a secure
knot, then release the ends so that the knot is
pulled back inside the paw. Sew the toes in the
same manner on all 4 paws.



All 4 paws should rest on the ground when the
puppy is standing . To achieve this, curve the
ankles, making the legs bend at the back of the
paw pads , as illustrated.

Bent leg vs unbent leg.




Centre the muzzle with the 4 increases on
R13 (marked by yellow pins in the images
below). Pin the magic ring of the muzzle to
the magic ring of the snout. The straight
edge of the muzzle should fall at R12 of
the head, but it’s more important that
the muz zle lays flat than at which
round it falls. The top lips should be well
rounded so tug them into shape if needed.
Pin the straight edge of the muzzle along
R12 (or whichever round it reaches) , then
sew the straight edge of the muzzle only.

38




Place a small amount of stuffing behind the
top eyelids (or use the loose ends, bundled
up) to help the eyes point directly outwards
from the face as opposed to being tilted
upwards (as they will if they lie flat on the
head ).

Counting from the magic ring at the snout ,
on the left side of the head, pin the inner
corners of the eyes at R13 with 11 sts
open between the 2 points (A). The
reflections should be closest to the
muzzle.



Viewing the head from the side, rotate the eyes
until they are level with the jawline. The outer
corners of the eyes (B) should fall at R22.










Place the nose on the front of the muzzle. It
should be level with the top of the muzzle when
viewed from the side. The bottom point should
fall between R1 & 2 of the muzzle , above the
magic ring .

Pin all around the edge of the nose, preserving
its shape as you go. Sew it in place .



Mould the muzzle into a square shape and
flatten it to be level with the nose.

39

Pin all around the eyes and sew them in place.
When you sew the top of the eye, work into the
stitch loops on the last row only.












Tuck the loose ends inside the ears and sew the
open ends closed, working 1 whip stitch into
every corresponding set of HDC and SC.



Counting from the magic ring, on the left side of
the head, pin the corners of the ears at R25 with
6 sts open between them (A).

40




Counting from the closing round of the head,
lay the ears flat and pin them at R7 (B).



Pin the midpoints of t he ears with 13 sts open
between them (C).



Finish pinning the ears, allowing them to curve
between points A, B & C then sew them in place,
working on the top side of the ears.






To pose the ears, smooth them downwards
onto the head, with the edge pointing straight
down as illustrated, behind the eye. This will
push the back of the ears up into a point.

41



BACK LEGS






















Pin the thighs on either side of the body with 3
rounds open on each side of the magic ring.






Leave 9 sts open across the puppy’s back,
between the closing round of the legs.




Pin all around the top of the thigh, leaving the
belly area un -pinned for now.



FRONT LEGS

Pin the shoulders on either side of the body
with 8 rounds open on each si de of the closing
round at the chest.




Squash the thighs
down firmly onto
the body with
your palm as you
pin them. Flatten
them enough to
make a crisp edge,
then pin that
edge. See the
Amigurumi Tips
booklet for more
pinning tips.

42










The top of the shoulders should be 6 rounds
away from the neck hole.



Pin all around the top of the shoulder, leaving
the chest area un -pinned for now. There will be
approximately 4 rounds between the front and
back legs (at the narrowest point between them,
on the side of the body).






Check Halo’s balance and adjust her leg s until
she’s standing flat on all 4 paw pads.



Squeeze the thighs onto the body until the back
legs point straight to the ground. There should
be 8 sts open across the belly at the midpoint of
the back legs. Pin them in place.




Squeeze the shoulders onto the body until the
front legs point straight to the ground. There
should be 8 sts open across the chest at the
midpoint of the front legs. Pin them place.



As with the back
legs, squash the
shoulders down
firmly to create a
crisp edge for
pinning in place.

43








Line up the body with the head so that they are
centred.

Counting downwards from the closing round of
the head, leave 7 rounds open , then pin the
back of the neck to the head .

Counting downwards from the magic ring at the
snout, leave 13 rounds open , then pi n the front
of the neck to the head.




When viewed from the front and the back,
Halo’s legs should be straight. Ad d more pins
around the thighs and shoulders if needed.





Sew the legs in place. When working on the
puppVXQGHUVLGHVHZWKRVHDUHDVRIWKHOHJV
by weaving your needle in and out between the
leg and the body.

44









The tail should curve upwards. Keeping the
opening rounded, place the tail 2 rounds above
the magic ring on the body. Pin and sew it in
place, working in FLO. Add more stuffing as you
go if needed but d o not overstuff the tail; it
should not bulge at the sewing seam .




Keeping the neck hole round, pin the rest of the
free edge to the head , then s ew it in place,
adding more stuffing as you go if needed. Do
not overstuff the neck. It sh ould be firm enough
to support the head but it should not bulge at
the sewing seam.

45







Congratulations, your puppy is complete!
Share your projects with me and your fellow
Projectarians on Facebook or Instagram by
tagging them with #HaloTheLabrador.



You can now turn
Halo into an
emotional support
dog with her
magical cape and
halo to wear, giving
her magical powers
of comfort and
love.

46















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